Kumlinge nature path
Kumlinge nature path is called Kumlinge åttan, meaning Kumlinge Eight, and as the name suggests, it follows a figure-eight shaped route along gravel roads, forest paths, cliffs, and the old postal road.
Along the trail, you’ll experience the diverse archipelago nature and village scenery, and nearly all of Kumlinge’s main attractions are located along the route. The trail is 12.5 km long, so it’s a good idea to reserve plenty of time to walk it and explore the sights.
There are two rest areas with tables along the way, as well as several information boards that introduce you to Kumlinge’s nature, culture, and history. The texts are available in three languages: Swedish, Finnish, and English. The Kumlinge guest harbor and the beach along the trail also make for great resting spots.
Map source: www.kumlinge.ax
Bring a map
Maps for the Kumlinge åttan nature trail are available to borrow from two locations:
- A mailbox at the Kumlinge guest harbor parking area
- A mailbox located near the church
If you’re traveling by car, you can park either at the guest harbor or the church and pick up a map from the nearby mailbox.
You can also download the map below.
Download the map and trail brochure here
Kumlinge nature trail markings
The trail is marked with white arrows or poles with white-painted tops. The markings were created by local volunteers in 2020, so the trail is relatively new. As a result, the signage is in good condition and it’s easy to stay on the right path.
I started my walk at the church and went counterclockwise, which meant I crossed the rocky sections first and returned via the old postal road. I decided to visit the church after completing the trail.
Don’t forget to check the church’s opening hours so you don’t miss your chance to visit!
In the summer of 2025, the church is open from June 23 to August 10, daily from 11:00–13:00 and 14:00–18:00. Check opening hours here.
The trail winds through rocky archipelago landscapes, as well as lush groves and wetlands. Boardwalks have been built in the wetter areas.
The information boards along the trail share stories about the plants, woodland habitats, and birds of the archipelago. I also spent some time snacking on blueberries and raspberries – there were plenty growing along the trail.
The trail enters the Kumlinge guest harbor quite unexpectedly, right behind the rental cottages.
There is a restaurant/café and a small kiosk in the guest harbor and cottage area, so it’s a nice spot to stop for refreshments. However, I continued walking – the trail continues along the road back toward the church.
Sights along the Kumlinge Eight nature trail
This part of the trail is full of sights to see. First, you’ll pass the beach – a great spot to take a break if you haven’t already paused at the guest harbor.
The Postal Road – a communication lifeline over sea and ice
The road you’re walking on was once part of the historic postal route through the archipelago between Stockholm and Turku. The route was established in 1638 and was in use for over 270 years.
Mail was carried by special postal farmers, who took turns transporting the post. They rowed or sailed across sea stretches and braved all kinds of weather.
For these farmers, mail delivery was a matter of honor – it had to get through, no matter the weather. In summer, by boat; in winter, cross the sea ice; and in spring and fall, they used whatever means they could.
The people of Kumlinge were responsible for the sea legs from Vårdö to Kumlinge (westbound) and Kumlinge to Brändö (eastbound), each about 45 kilometers long.
The crossing over Teili between Vårdö and Kumlinge was one of the most dangerous parts of the route. The open sea offered no shelter during storms. Still, the post was always delivered!
The postal road remained in use until 1910.
The archipelago infirmary – care for an isolated community
Just past the beach, you’ll see an impressive building that once served as the archipelago’s infirmary. It was completed in 1934 and played a key role in providing healthcare throughout the archipelago, not just on Kumlinge.
The building had three rooms for 5–6 patients, examination rooms, an operating theatre, and a doctor’s residence. The doctor also made house calls across the islands.
In its first year, the infirmary treated 57 patients, totaling 978 care days. It remained in use for about 35 years. Today, the building houses a guesthouse.
The Fälberg memorial – the clever victory of Kumlinge locals over the Russians
Near the infirmary, atop a rocky hill, stands the Fälberg memorial, commemorating the Battle of Kumlinge in 1808, when local Åland farmers surprised and defeated Russian soldiers.
Legend has it the Russians were dining in the vicarige when, in poor visibility, they spotted what they thought was a large crowd approaching from the top of Fälberg – in reality, it was just about ten men.
The locals fired a cannon from the hilltop down onto the Russians in the field below. After a few hours of fighting, the Russians surrendered. And so, ten men from Kumlinge defeated an entire Russian battalion – which typically includes several hundred soldiers!
Whether it was strategy or luck, it perfectly illustrates a trait often associated with the people of Åland: cleverness.
The memorial was erected in 1920 as a tribute to the bravery, local pride, and perseverance of the island’s ancestors.
The Old pharmacy
It’s well worth taking a short detour to the old pharmacy, which has been an important part of Kumlinge’s history. The building dates back to the late 1800s, and some of the logs are said to have come from the Bomarsund fortress. At one time, the premises housed both the doctor’s and the sheriff’s offices.
The pharmacy opened in 1935. At the time – and still today – Kumlinge’s pharmacy is the only one in the Åland archipelago.
According to the sign outside, local children used to earn their first coins by selling lilies of the valley to the pharmacist, who used them to make medicines.
The interior is still almost in its original state, though updated with modern technology.
Kumlinge likely got its own pharmacy because a local clinic started operating nearby in the same year. The pharmacy is still open today, weekdays from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Next to the pharmacy building, there was also a small flea market.
Kumlinge church – a medieval gem in Åland
Finally, the trail loops back to the church. It’s definitely worth stepping inside – the church is truly stunning!
The church is called Saint Anna’s Church, and it was built in the late 13th or early 14th century. It’s one of the oldest stone churches in Åland.
Its greatest treasure is its medieval wall paintings, dating from 1480–1520. According to the church brochure, they were made using the secco technique on dry walls, which has helped them remain well preserved.
The paintings are unexpectedly beautiful – something you wouldn’t expect to find in a modest island church!
Inside, you’ll find the original stone altar, a saint’s cabinet, and other well-preserved medieval items. Outside is an old cemetery where the history of Kumlinge lives on through generations engraved in stone.
How to get to Kumlinge
Kumlinge lies along the northern ferry line of Åland.
From Finland
Ferry port: Vuosnainen, Kustavi
The ferry first goes to Åva in Brändö. From there, it’s about a 25-minute drive to the Torsholma port, where a second ferry takes you to Kumlinge.
NOTE: Both ferry trips must be booked separately.
Travel time: Vuosnainen – Åva 40 min, Torsholma – Kumlinge 1 hr 5 min
From mainland Åland
Ferry port: Hummelvik
Travel time: Hummelvik – Kumlinge approx. 1 hr 30 min
More information about ferries and routes can be found in the post below.
Accommodation
Unfortunately, there is no longer a campsite in Kumlinge. Pleasant places to stay include the cabin village by the guest harbor and Hotel Svala, which is located in the former island infirmary.
You can find more accommodation options on Kumlinge municipality’s website.
